Double Bowline
( Round Turn Bowline | Double-Knotted Bowline | ABOK #1013 )
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Usage
The Double Bowline is one of two typical tie-in knots used in climbing, along with the Figure Eight Loop. An advantage of the Double Bowline over the Figure Eight is it is easier to untie after being weighted in a fall. Sport climbers who take multiple lead falls and then have trouble untying their figure eights commonly use the Double Bowline instead. However, the Double Bowline is less secure than a Figure Eight.
Common Uses
- tie into a climbing harness with a loop that is easy to untie after a fall.
- form a secure loop at the end of a rope for rescue or climbing.
- create a fixed loop that unties more easily than a figure eight after heavy loading.
- make a tie-in loop for sport climbing where repeated falls are expected.
Warning ⚠️
Verify tying technique with a skilled instructor where knot failure could cause property damage, injury, or death.
Also known as
- Round Turn Bowline
- Double-Knotted Bowline
ABOK
- 1013
Structure
Instead of the single turn of the standard Bowline, the Double Bowline uses a second turn or 'round turn'.
Strength/Reliability
Though more secure than the standard Bowline, the Double Bowline is less secure than a Figure Eight Loop. Efficiency is rated at 70-75%.
