Usage
The Double Bowline is one of two typical tie-in knots used in climbing, along with the Figure Eight Loop. An advantage of the Double Bowline over the Figure Eight is it is easier to untie after being weighted in a fall. Sport climbers who take multiple lead falls and then have trouble untying their figure eights commonly use the Double Bowline instead. However, the Double Bowline is less secure than a Figure Eight.
Warning
Verify tying technique with a skilled instructor where knot failure could cause property damage, injury, or death.
Also known as
- Round Turn Bowline
- Double-Knotted Bowline
ABOK
Structure
Instead of the single turn of the standard
Bowline, the Double Bowline uses a second turn or 'round turn'.
Strength/Reliability
Though more secure than the standard
Bowline, the Double Bowline is less secure than a
Figure Eight Loop. Efficiency is rated at 70-75%.
