Usage
The Munter Hitch is a simple knot, commonly used by climbers and cavers as part of a life-lining or belay system. This technique can be used with a special "pear-shaped" HMS locking carabiner, or any locking carabiner wide enough to take two turns of the rope. The Munter Hitch creates friction by having the rope rub on itself and on the object it has been wrapped around. There is no static friction on any part of the rope as it is a continuously moving knot. One very useful aspect of the Munter is its reversibility; it can be pulled from either side of the rope and it still works just as effectively.
Warning
Verify tying technique with a skilled instructor where knot failure could cause property damage, injury, or death.
History
In the late 1950's, three Italian climbers, Mario Bisaccia, Franco Garda and Pietro Gilardoni developed a new belay technique called the "Mezzo Barcaiolo" or MB for short. The "Munter Hitch" name comes from the the Swiss mountain guide, Werner Munter, who popularized its use in mountaineering in the 1970's. Despite Werner being the namesake for the Munter Hitch, he was better known for his work on avalanche terrain risk assessment and avalanche education. The Munter is also known as "HMS", the abbreviation for the German term "Halbmastwurfsicherung", meaning half clove hitch belay.
Also known as
- Italian Hitch
- Crossing Hitch
- HMS
- Tag Knot
- MB
ABOK
Strength/Reliability
One advantage of the Munter Hitch is it can more effectively dissipate heat than a belay device because no two surfaces of the rope are in contact with each other for more than an instant. However, it places more bends in a rope than other belay methods, and creates significantly more friction on the outer sheath. It can also introduce significant twists to the rope. The friction of the rope against the screw on the carabiner can cause the screw to undo and the carabiner to open, potentially weakening the strength of the carabiner, or allowing the rope to escape the carabiner completely.
