Edwards Bowline

( Butler’s Bowline | Harry Butler’s Yosemite Bowline )

Animation: Edwards Bowline

Usage

The Edwards Bowline is a secure, tie-in knot for lead climbing.

Warning

Verify tying technique with a skilled instructor where knot failure could cause property damage, injury, or death.

History

The earliest found demonstration of the Edwards Bowline was on the website ukclimbing.com in an article dated May 2003 by Alan James who said he was taught the Yosemite Bowline variation by Steve Anson who was in turn taught it by Rowland Edwards, a mountain guide and instructor in the United Kingdom. Unfortunately, the original webpage can now only be found via the Wayback Machine. The Edwards Bowline was again illustrated on Youtube in 2014 by Mark Edwards, Rowland's son. Independently, this same knot was discovered by Harry Butler of Australia circa 2015 and some refer to it as Harry Butler’s Yosemite Bowline.

Also known as

  • Butler’s Bowline
  • Harry Butler’s Yosemite Bowline

Structure

The Edwards Bowline is based upon the Yosemite Bowline but adds an additional turn and securing tuck of the working end.

Strength/Reliability

The Edwards Bowline is inherently secure and will not jam under load.