Usage
The End-line Prusik is used create a movable friction hitch that attaches a cord or rope to another rope. It can also be used to attach a line to a spar. It is primarily used in climbing applications and should be finished with a security knot such as a Bowline or Rethreaded Figure Eight knot.Warning
Verify tying technique with a skilled instructor where knot failure could cause property damage, injury, or death.History
The Prusik Hitch is named for its alleged inventor, Austrian mountaineer Dr. Karl Prusik. It was shown in a 1931 Austrian mountaineering manual for rope ascending. It was used on several mountaineering routes of the era to ascend the final summit peak, where a rope could be thrown over the top and anchored so that climbers could attain the summit by prusiking up the other side of the rope. Although the Prusik Climb technique may be seen as outdated by some, the US Army still includes it in its annual Best Ranger competition. Rangers in the competition routinely make it up a 90 foot rope in under a minute.Also known as
- Prusik Hitch
- End of the Rope Prusik
- End-line Prusik
ABOK
- 1763
Structure
The End of the Rope Prusik differs from the "standard" Prusik friction hitch in that it does not use a short, closed Prusik cord that is looped around the main line, but rather builds up the knot by using the working end to attach the rope to the other line. This characteristic makes it suitable for tying a Prusik using a long rope.Strength/Reliability
Prusiks provide a strong attachment that will not damage or break the rope. Prusiks are ineffective upon frozen wet ropes. This is due to the necessity of friction for the Prusik to function.As a general rule, the diameter of the cord used in these types of friction hitches should be should be no more than 70% the diameter of the primary climbing line. However, this rule of thumb is dependant on the stiffness and type of material used in the cord. The heat generated from friction should also be considered as it can damage the cord. For security, the End-line Prusik should be finished with a Bowline or Rethreaded Figure Eight knot (not shown here).
