Usage
The Flat Overhand Bend is a knot used to join two ropes together. It is used in climbing and mountaineering and also has many everyday uses as it is one of the easiest knots to tie. In rock climbing, the Flat Overhand Bend is a favored knot for joining two ropes for a rappel longer than half the length of the ropes. The knot is also used by mechanical balers to bind straw and hay.
Warning
Verify tying technique with a skilled instructor where knot failure could cause property damage, injury, or death.
History
The Flat Overhand Bend has existed since ancient times and has long been used by weavers to join the ends of yarn. It was one of the knots identified among the possessions of Ötzi the Iceman mummy, who lived around 3300 BC near the current border between Austria and Italy. In modern times the knot is commonly used for rappelling. American climbers, presumably believing the knot to be used only in hay bales or otherwise too prone to "flyping" (inversion by capsizing), came to refer to it as the "European Death Knot", abbreviated as EDK. Such capsizing is actually highly unlikely with the tails left long (See Strength/Reliability below).
Also known as
- EDK
- Euro Death Knot
- Offset Water Knot
- One-Sided Overhand Bend
- Thumb Bend
- Thumb Knot
- Openhand Knot
- Creeler's Knot
- European Death Knot
ABOK
Structure
The Flat Overhand Bend is formed by holding two rope ends next to each other and tying an Overhand knot in them as if they were a single line.
Strength/Reliability
Knot authority Clifford Ashley notes: The Flat Overhand Bend "ranks higher than the
Sheet Bend in security but is among the weakest of bends". Due to Ashley's statement and despite the American nickname, "European Death Knot" (See History above), the Flat Overhand Bend does present advantages for use in rappels. Because the knot is offset from the axis of tension, it can slide more easily over rough surfaces than other knots. Along with its comparatively small size, this aids in rope retrieval by reducing its chance of getting stuck on edges, in cracks, or descent equipment. Since a stuck rope on a descent represents a serious hazard to climbers, these advantages, along with ease of tying, have led to its popularity. It is recommended by some sources with the caveats that the tails be left very long (greater than half a meter or 18 inches), the knot be carefully dressed and fully tightened by pulling individually on all four strands, and then subjected only to moderate rappelling loads.
